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I was in total shock and instantly inquired about her antiaging tactics.
Jen Gotch / Getty
Her answer surprised me.
“My dermatologist prescribes me retinol,” she said.
“But can’t you just get that stuff over the counter?”
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Apparently yesbut not with the same promise of results.
Can retinoids really work harder for your aging skin than the other creams that promise to reduce theappearanceof wrinkles?
Are there any drawbacks to using this pop in of ingredient too early in life?
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With so many questions and few too little answers, I decided to investigate.
Its hailed by dermatologists as a multi-purpose skincare product.
With regular use, it can produce smoother, brighter, more even-toned skin overall.
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Retinoids teach aging cells how to behave like younger, healthier cells by encouraging them to turnover more rapidly.
This makes way for new cell growth," says Joel Schlessinger, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist andRealSelfadvisor.
The difference between them lies in where you get them.
Retin-A is what you get from the dermatologist.
Whereas, retinol that is available over-the-counter is not as closely regulated.
When you get it from your dermatologist…
This means the cream penetrates more quickly, causing redness and peeling for the first couple weeks of use.
Prescription-strength creams are designed to help you achieve visible results much more quickly, says Schlessinger.
Look for ingredients like retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl linoleate in the beauty aisle.
These versions are best for sensitive skin that may be prone to irritation.
You betretinoid creams have long been used to treat moderate-to-severe acne because they work to unclog and minimize pores.
Adding a retinoid to your regimen also helps other medicated acne treatments work more effectively and prevents acne scarring.
He also notes that retinol can be used as a spot treatment for patients dealing with psoriasis.
Most dermatologists would recommend starting to use retinol in your mid-to-late 20s, says Engelman.
The retinoid can dry out the skin causing irritation such as itching, scaling, or peeling.
If this occurs, apply a moisturizer over or under the retinoid.
Or, take a break for a few days and switch to a milder exfoliant like alpha hydroxy acid.
Also, proceed with caution if you have a darker skin tone.
Retinoids can definitely be irritating, particularly prescription-strength products.
And remember: Less is more with retinoids.
You should only need a pea-size amount for your entire face, Schlessinger advises.
You also want to be careful how retinol will react with other products in your skincare regimen.
It’s better to use products that have a high concentration of retinoids at night.
This is because Retin-A and other prescription-strength retinoid creams are more susceptible to oxidation and UV rays.
But you may notice that some over-the-counter formulas are intended for daytime use.
However, such small amounts of retinol likely wont help you achieve best results on its own.
Instead, retinoids communicate with aging skin cells telling them how to behave.
Just be careful not to over-exfoliate, which can worsen dryness and peeling.
With an over-the-counter retinol, you might expect a few visible improvements somewhere around eight to 10 weeks.
