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In recent years, kale has become something of an American celebrity.
Wherever you eat, theres likely some kale offering on the menu.
Yes, that leafy green is no longer the fringe health food it once washeckits practically a status symbol.
But that’s not the case in France.
In fact, there, it’s still relatively unknown.
In France, kale is a “legume oublie,” which literally translates to “forgotten vegetable.”
And thats just one of its many names.
Everyone calls it something differentif they refer to it at all.
(And no, for the record, its not a jot down of cabbage.)
Three years ago, I quickly learned how difficult it was to find (or even ask for!)
kale during a semester abroad in Paris, when I was passively on the hunt for Americas favorite veggie.
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Kristen Beddard was one such expat.
And for her, this would not do.
In an attempt to bring the lost vegetable back to the City Of Lights, Beddard foundedThe Kale Project.
With their help, Beddard saw to kale’s French comeback.
“Until I arrived in Paris, I never thought about kale,” Beddard tells SELF.
Growing up in avegetarianhousehold, she had regularly eaten kale long before it became a staple of American diets.
So when she and her husband arrived in Paris, almost immediately she noticed that it was missing.
“Right away I realized I hadnt seen it yet.
I kept looking for it at different grocery stores and markets, but I couldnt find it.
No one recognized it and no one had heard of it.
The fact that it was nowhere to be found in Paris confounded Beddard.
But from a commercial perspective they werent growing it [in France] anymore, she explains.
Beddard says there are a couple possible explanations for this phenomenon.
Kale is super resistant, meaning its often heavily eaten in times of hardshipthink cabbage or potatoes.
Just a few months into her stay, Beddard found herself seeking kale-related solace on the world wide web.
Her American following quickly grewshe just had to get the French onboard.
The French dont think that they eat badly, so they arent trying to eat healthier.
Initially I was going to talk about kale asa superfood, but for the French that doesnt work.
For me to say that Im bringing something back that was always a part of you was really important.
Hermione Boehrer was the first farmer Beddard recruited.
Because of that, she thought Boehrer might be interested in kale.
Though not a farmer herself, Beddard searched online and organic seeds from a seller in the UK.
Now she sells it every season.
“Joel grows forgotten vegetables all the timethings like parsnips and dandelion greens.
It’s his shtick,” Beddard explains.
Beddard convinced him to give it another go in June 2012.
Now, both Tuscan and curly kale are mainstays at his farmers market stand.
By 2013, she had worked with three farmersBoeher, Thiebault, and one otherto successfully produce kale.
Then, the coverage began.
In September of 2013, theNew York Timescalled Beddard a “kale crusader.”
Everything took off a lot faster than I expected, Beddard tells SELF.
Amidst all this, Beddard helped introduce the vegetable to high-end restaurants throughout the city.
Shes hesitant to take credit for all of it, however.
Beddard returned to New York this fall.
But that’s totally OK with her.
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