They also come in many different forms including cleansers, moisturizers, and peel pads.
But here’s the lowdown if you’re a chemical newbie.
There are two ways to exfoliate yourskin: physical scrubs and chemical exfoliants.
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Youre likely familiar with the physical pop in.
These are the classic scrubs containing small particles that buff away the top layer of dead skin cells.
And the results are immediate, but often minimal.
One alternative to a mechanical scrub is chemical exfoliation.
Some of the most common AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid.
And on natural products you might also see the term fruit acids on the jar.
Glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane (but it can also be made synthetically in the lab).
Glycolic acid is the smallest acid in size, meaning the molecule can get deep into the skin.
If you havesensitive skin, glycolic can cause dryness and redness, so reach for lactic acid instead.
Lactic acids chemical structure is a bit more complex, but it is better for sensitive skin.
Lactic acid improves discoloration and age spots, says Engelman.
This acid is more gentle on the skin.
And because it is derived from dairy, it aids in correcting pH imbalances.
BHAs:Salicylic acid is the most common BHA.
In its raw form, its a white crystalline powder that dissolves in oil.
Salicylic acid is best for oily, acne-prone skin types because it is compatible with oils.
Therefore it can get into the pores to help reduce acne, says Wilson.
Thats why salicylic acid is one of the most popular options for acne washes and spot treatments.
Note:Not every acid is an exfoliant.
Take kojic acid, for example.
Its actually a skin brightening agent, not an exfoliating ingredient.
They have to be on the skin for a certain amount of time to penetrate.
This all depends on the amount of acid and the pH of the product.
The lower the pH, the more effective they are at exfoliating, says Wilson.
But it is also far more irritating, therefore rinsing is highly recommended.
So dont get overzealous with your rinse-off products.
Its important to neutralize the active ingredient to avoid skin irritation.
You have to be careful about how yourelayering products.
AHAs and BHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
And in general, its better to use these products at night.
Wilson also warns that using acids and retinol together can cause irritation.
So you might want to consider an alternating skin schedule.
Related:Is Retinol Really The Best Antiaging Ingredient Out There?
Also be cautious about the number of exfoliating products you use in your routine.
One acid product is sufficient.
You dont have to use a cleanser and a leave-on and pads and acne medication, says Shah.
But overall the exfoliation that AHAs and BHAs provide makes your other skincare products more effective.
Chemical exfoliants are loosening up the cells that come in between skincare products and the rest of the skin.
Therefore use of AHAs and BHA can enhance penetration of ingredients.
This tends to help with efficacy, says Wilson.
All of our experts warned against using these products too much.
The biggest mistake with exfoliants is over-using them, says Engelman.
By day four, they come to me withdry, irritated skin.
Discontinue use for a full week.
But there is a stronger option available in the dermatologist office.
At-home peels target the very top layers of the skin, says Engelman.
In-office procedures are used with stronger concentrations and penetrate deeper into the skin, thus revealing greater results.
Therefore that is what is most commonly used, she says.
Professional peels tend to have pHs below 3 and can have acid levels up to 70 percent.
People have misconception that it’s going to be so scary, says Shah.
